Following in the Footsteps of Rose Wilder Lane’s in Northern Albania
Rose Wilder Lane, an American writer, was born in South Dakota. Before travelling to Italy, Greece, Yugoslavia, and Albania, she worked at the Red Cross office in Paris. Her most famous book, ‘Majat e Shalës,’ was inspired by her journey to the mountains of northern Albania in 1921. Lane states, ‘In this work, I share only what I have witnessed during my travels among the tribes of the northern Albanian Mountains.’ “Majat e Shalës” is a written account of an adventurer’s life filled with numerous adventures. The tales documented in Rose Wilder Lane’s notes revolve around an expedition carried out by a team of foreign missionaries in the northern region of the country, traveling from Shkodra to Shalë, Theth, and Shosh. The author uncovers the unique history of the rough terrain and cultural regions while demonstrating the interdependence between the environment and the mountain people’s resilient character. Lane observed the ridges and horst-graben formations in Albania. He witnessed Albanians, both rich and poor, gathering materials to bake bread. Lane described the physical, moral, and psychological appearance of mountain Albanians, mainly Dukagjinas. He appreciated the natural beauty of Albania, comparing it favourably to Switzerland. The book ‘Majat e Shalës’ expresses sympathy and noble feelings. The statement was made during a period when Albanians were frequently perceived as the final vestiges of barbarism in Europe.
A Three-Day Itinerary
This itinerary follows the footsteps of renowned American writer Rose Wilder Lane, venturing into the rugged beauty of northern Albania as documented in her acclaimed book “Peaks of Shala.” Prepare yourself for breathtaking landscapes, captivating cultural encounters, and insights into the region’s unique history and traditions.
Day 1: Delving into the Kir River Valley
Morning:
Begin your journey in Shkodra, where Lane embarked on her adventure. From there, travel towards Pult through the Kir River Valley, marveling at the dramatic scenery carved by the river between the Maranaj-Bigaj-Gimaj and Ershel-Cukal Mountain ranges.
Afternoon:
Witness the river’s transformative power at Ura e Shtrenjtë, home to stunning canyons and designated as a natural monument. Explore the Zhylla Cave, another natural wonder, before reaching Prekal, where the mountains narrow into dramatic cliffs.
Evening:
Arrive at the Kir village, where you can spend the night and appreciate the vibrant local culture.
Day 2: Unveiling the Shalë Valley
Morning:
Continue your journey into the heart of the Western Alps, reaching the enchanting Shalë Valley. Discover charming villages like Nicaj-Shosh, Ndreaj, Vuksanaj, Nicaj-Shalë, and Ndërlysaj, each offering a glimpse into rural life steeped in tradition.Afternoon:
Immerse yourself in the natural beauty of the Shalë River as it traverses the valley, forming basins and carving through the impressive Shalë and Shosh gates, another natural monument.Evening:
Conclude your day in Theth, where Lane found respite and connection with the local community. Explore the village and soak in the tranquility of this mountainous haven.
Day 3: Exploring Cultural Riches and Natural Wonders
Morning:
Delve deeper into the unique customs and traditions observed by Lane. Learn about the concept of “vengeance pardon” and understand its significance in resolving conflicts within the highland communities.
Afternoon:
Witness the respect for diverse faiths, as exemplified by the story of Rexha’s dinner. Appreciate the heartwarming gestures of inclusivity despite religious differences.
Evening:
Reflect on your journey, revisiting Lane’s insightful descriptions and appreciating the enduring spirit of the people and the timeless beauty of the region.
By embarking on this journey, you’ll gain a deeper appreciation for Rose Wilder Lane’s enduring legacy and experience the captivating blend of nature, culture, and history that continues to draw travelers to these remarkable regions of Albania.
Lane succeeded Edith Durham as a missionary among Albanians and aimed to educate the Western world about Albania and its people. She believed that Albania was beautiful and saw the mystery of life reflected in the faces of every Albanian she met. Lane focuses on the phenomenon of revenge, which is explained in the Canon. She observed and prescribed the concept of a “vengeance pardon”, where the cross plays a significant role in pardoning a bloody conflict and transforming it into a symbiosis with extraordinary values for the highlanders. Additionally, the author describes various customs observed in the life of the highlanders in northern Albania. Despite the oppressive Canon laws, which punished errors with death, there existed a certain delicacy that was heartwarming. Additionally, there were prohibitions against harming women and taking revenge in the presence of women, showing a respect for women in Albanian culture. Moreover, Lane observed that the Albanians respected each other’s religion.
