Born into a London family with a medical tradition in 1863, Mary Edith Durham’s path charted a course far beyond the realm of medicine. While her artistic talents flourished at esteemed institutions like Bedford College and the Royal Academy of Arts, personal circumstances propelled her towards a life-changing journey that would forever link her destiny with the captivating Balkan nation of Albania.
Embracing Albania: A Multifaceted Legacy
Arriving in Albania at the age of 37, Durham’s multifaceted personality blossomed. She delved into diverse fields, encompassing ethnography, anthropology, writing, and humanitarian work. This versatility resonated deeply with the Albanians, who bestowed upon her immense respect. Her contributions extended far beyond mere academic pursuits, as she actively engaged in political, social, and scientific endeavors, culminating in seven insightful books chronicling the complexities of the Balkan region.
Upper Albania / ShqipÃŦria e EpÃŦrme: A Monumental Work
Among her literary accomplishments, Edith Durham’s magnum opus, “ShqipÃŦria e EpÃŦrme” (High Albania), published in 1909, stands as a testament to her profound connection with Albania, especially the breathtaking Upper Albania region. The stark contrast between the region’s natural beauty, exemplified by the soaring Albanian Alps, and the contrasting conditions in Southern Albania, underscores the book’s unique focus.
A Passion for the Untamed: The Enchantment of Theth
Within “ShqipÃŦria e EpÃŦrme,” Durham’s description of Theth paints a vivid picture of an “uninhabited country” offering “magnificent isolation from the whole world.” This portrayal underscores her fascination with the untamed spirit of Upper Albania, a region she sometimes felt was best preserved from external influences.
Queen of the Albanian Mountains: Enduring Recognition
Durham’s unwavering dedication to Albania earned her the revered title “Queen of the Albanian Mountains.” Her extensive journeys across the Western Alps and other mountainous regions, combined with her keen observation of the patriarchal social structures, provided invaluable insights into the lives of the people. “ShqipÃŦria e EpÃŦrme” meticulously documents areas like Kastrati, Shkreli, Gruda, and Theth, preserving a rich tapestry of cultural heritage.
Following in Edith’s Footsteps: Themed Itineraries
Drawing inspiration from Durham’s journeys and experiences, a selection of themed itineraries has been designed. Bearing her name, these itineraries offer visitors an opportunity to retrace her steps and discover the captivating landscapes and historical landmarks that captivated this remarkable explorer.Variant #A: Edith Durham’s Journey Through Upper Albania – A Day Trip Itinerary
This single-day field trip retraces the path of Edith Durham’s initial exploration of Upper Albania, as documented in her factual account. Her first journey in North of Albania was carried out on Friday, May 9, 1908 following this itinerary:Starting Point: Shkodra Departure:
Morning:
- Shkodra – Vraka: The journey begins in Shkodra, traversing through a grove before reaching the Serbian village of Vraka.
- Vraka – Koplik: The route continues to Koplik, the administrative center of MalÃŦsia e Madhe, passing through a predominantly Muslim community.
- Koplik – Pustopoj: The path leads towards Pustopoj, a rocky plateau named after the Serbian influence in the region.
Afternoon:
- Pustopoj – Upper Kastrat: The path winds its way to Bratosh village, nestled within Upper Kastrat territory.
- Upper Kastrat: Anthropological observations are interwoven with local lore. Durham’s perspective on the origin of the name “Kastrat” (Latin: “castrum”) is juxtaposed with the local belief linking it to their hero, Skanderbeg. The region’s strong Christian identity and resistance against Turkish rule are emphasized.
- Kastrat History: The guide recounts the region’s historical struggles for independence against the Ottomans, including the tragic episode of 1883, involving betrayal, diplomatic intervention, and a broken truce.
- End Point: An inn (An inn in Hot in Ãesme or Shala in Kastrat where travelers rested). This variant offers a glimpse into a single day of Durham’s exploration, showcasing the potential for further itineraries inspired by her life and work. This itinerary offer valuable insights into the culture, society and history of the area as documented in Durham`s publication “High Albania” (1909). Edith Durham, a revered scholar and champion of Northern Albania, deserves recognition for placing the region on the international map. Her groundbreaking publication, “ShqipÃŦria e EpÃŦrme” (English: “High Albania”), documented her initial journey through the region. This itinerary invites you to retrace Durham’s steps, using the provided map as your guide.
Essential Information for Travelers: The Cultural and Historical Landscape of MalÃŦsi e Madhe
MalÃŦsi e Madhe, a captivating region bordering Shkodra Lake and Montenegro in Northern Albania, offers travelers a unique blend of rich cultural heritage and stunning natural landscapes. Prior to embarking on their journey, visitors are advised to familiarize themselves with the region’s distinct history, vibrant folklore, and diverse natural environment.
Historical and Cultural Significance: The name “MalÃŦsi,” derived from the Albanian word “mal” meaning “mountain,” aptly describes the region’s mountainous topography. However, its significance extends far beyond mere geography. MalÃŦsi e Madhe possesses a distinct cultural identity, differentiated from other parts of Northern Albania throughout its history.
Ancestral Connections: While not direct descendants, the inhabitants of MalÃŦsi e Madhe proudly trace their heritage back to the Illyrian tribe, the Labeat. This ancestral connection is evident in the presence of several historical settlements like Balesi and the imposing “Kelmend Fortress,” remnants of the Illyrian past.
Venetian Influence: Until the late 15th century, MalÃŦsi e Madhe enjoyed close ties with the Venetian Republic, reflected in the historical dominance of aristocratic families like the Balshaj and Cernovic dynasties. This period of interaction left its mark on the region’s cultural fabric.
Echoes of the Past: A Tapestry of Folklore. MalÃŦsi e Madhe is a treasure trove of folkloric traditions, serving as a repository of rich oral history. Epic songs like “KÃŦngÃŦt e Mujit e Halilit” and “Ded Gjo Lulit” continue to be passed down through generations, showcasing the vibrant cultural heritage of the region.
Beyond the Picturesque: Unveiling the Essence of MalÃŦsi e Madhe. While the dramatic landscapes, including the impressive Shpella e FrashÃŦrit cave and the Syri i Sheganit underground water system, undoubtedly capture the attention of many visitors, it is crucial to remember that the true essence of MalÃŦsi e Madhe lies in understanding the local way of life, deeply rooted history, and unique perspective. Following in the footsteps of renowned explorers like Edith Durham, travelers are encouraged to delve deeper and appreciate the human dimension that breathes life into this captivating region.
Edith Durham Route: Unveiling the Cultural and Natural Splendors of Shkrel
(Variant #B – Two Days)
This two-day itinerary, titled the “Edith Durham Route,” invites travelers to embark on a journey through the captivating region of Shkrel in Northern Albania. Inspired by the explorations of renowned writer and traveler Mary Edith Durham, this itinerary unveils the region’s hidden villages, cultural treasures, and breathtaking natural landscapes.
Day 1: Immersed in Nature’s Grandeur Morning:
- The journey begins in Shkrel, where Durham vividly described the valley’s scenic splendor nestled between the Bigaj Gimaj-KunorÃŦ Lohe and Veleçik-Bridash mountain ranges.
- Explore the PÃŦrroi i ThatÃŦ River, a unique natural formation shaped by limestone, carving a deep canyon through the valley. Learn about the historical influence of an ancient emir on the river’s course.
- Embark on a hike to the source of the river, traversing the “gray desert of arid rocks” known as Karst. Observe the captivating transformation of the sunlit rock formations, their hues changing dramatically at dawn and dusk.
Afternoon:
- Cultural Crossroads: Cross the creek bed near BÃŦrzheta and head south towards Reçi. Explore the village of Lohja, a microcosm of religious diversity with both a mosque and an imam, contrasting with the predominantly Muslim village of Reçi, which boasts a priest.
- Witness the majestic snow-capped peaks of the Shkreli Mountains, contrasting vividly with the dark pine forests below. Immerse yourself in the surrounding beauty, renowned as some of the highest peaks in the Western Alps.
Evening:
- Experience the charm of popular tourist destinations within the Shkrel Municipal Nature Park, including RazÃŦm, Reç, and BogÃŦ. Take leisurely walks under the shade of the chestnut trees in Reç and Lohe, as described by Durham herself.
- Ascend the hill above Reç to marvel at the breathtaking panorama of the surrounding fields and ShkodÃŦr Lake. Appreciate the protected chestnut groves, categorized as a Natural Monument.
Day 2: Unveiling Traditions and Landscapes
Morning:
- Delve into the local customs and traditions documented by Durham in Shkreli. Learn about the solemn oaths practiced in Reç and the significance of the sacred stone.
Afternoon:
- Embark on a nature expedition through marked trails like KunorÃŦ Lohe, Veleçik-BridashÃŦ, Maja, and RabÃŦs, immersing yourself in the captivating alpine landscape of Boga and experiencing the diverse flora and fauna of the region.
This two-day itinerary offers a glimpse into the captivating tapestry of Shkrel, where nature, culture, and history seamlessly blend. By retracing the steps of Edith Durham and engaging with the local communities, travelers gain a deeper appreciation for this remarkable region’s unique character and enduring legacy.
Trek with the “Queen of the Highlanders”: A Two-Day Itinerary Inspired by Edith Durham in National Park (Variant #C)
This meticulously curated itinerary invites you to embark on an immersive exploration of Theth National Park, following in the footsteps of the legendary explorer, Edith Durham, fondly known as the “Queen of the Highlanders.” The two-day journey delves into the heart of the park, showcasing its breathtaking natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and diverse wildlife.Day 1: Arriving in a Picturesque Paradise
Morning:
- The adventure commences in Theth village, nestled amidst the majestic peaks of the Albanian Alps. Admire its picturesque charm, aptly described by Durham as the “most beautiful Albanian village.”
- Embark on a captivating hike towards the enchanting Grunas Waterfall, cascading 30 meters down a verdant mountainside. Feel the refreshing spray and capture the breathtaking scenery.
- Gain valuable insights into the park’s captivating biodiversity and cultural significance at the Theth National Park Visitor Center. Based on your interests, you can tailor your exploration for a personalized experience.
Afternoon:
- Feel the adrenaline rush as you traverse the thrilling trail leading to the towering Gjeçaj Waterfall, plunging over 24 meters within a dramatic rocky gorge. Immerse yourself in the awe-inspiring power and beauty of nature.
- Witness the captivating Pusi i Zi / The black well, a natural marvel formed by the confluence of underground springs. Marvel at its deep, crystal-clear water and unique black color.
- Engage in insightful cultural exploration by visiting traditional homes or learning about local crafts, experiencing the warmth and hospitality that defines the people of Theth.
Evening:
- Savor a delicious dinner featuring regional specialties like “byrek” and “fli” under the starlit sky, indulging in the flavors of the region.
- Immerse yourself in the local culture by enjoying traditional music and storytelling around a crackling bonfire, fostering a sense of connection with the community.
Day 2: Delving into Natural Wonders Morning:
- For adventurous individuals, an exhilarating hike to the Col of Peja awaits, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks. This glacial landscape evokes a sense of awe and grandeur. For those seeking an even greater challenge, the ascent of Maja e Harapit beckons, boasting the highest vertical cliff face in the Balkans at a staggering 800 meters.
- Explore the depths of Harap Cave, one of the longest horizontal caves in Albania. Witness its captivatingly intricate formations and hidden underground lakes.
- Unravel the mysteries of Bira e RrathÃŦve, a karst cave situated near Grunas Waterfall, revealing impressive formations sculpted by time and nature.
Afternoon:
- If you choose to forgo the challenging hikes, a scenic drive to the serene Lake Pass of Peja presents a captivating alternative. Nestled amidst breathtaking mountains, this tranquil haven offers a moment of respite and reflection.
- As your journey nears its end, unwind in the tranquility of nature, reflecting on the unforgettable experiences and the timeless beauty of Theth National Park. Embrace the spirit of Edith Durham and create your own unique adventure in this captivating national treasure. This itinerary highlight key attractions and activities based on Edith Durham’s descriptions. Below are some photos of these destinations.
Discovering Theth National Park’s Cultural and Historical Treasures for the Visitors
Theth National Park, nestled within the majestic Albanian Alps, transcends its breathtaking natural beauty, and unveils a rich historical and cultural tapestry. Each landmark whispers tales of tradition, resilience, and enduring values, offering visitors a window into the heart and soul of this unique region.
Steeped in History: The Immersion Tower and Theth Church
The Immersion Tower, a three-story stone sentinel dating back over four centuries, embodies a pivotal facet of Theth’s history. Its imposing presence and narrow windows speak volumes about its role as a beacon of reconciliation. Within its walls, countless blood feuds were resolved according to the tenets of the Lek Dukagjin Canon, echoing centuries of conflict resolution, and fostering societal harmony. Standing tall since its 1892 reconstruction, the ancient Theth Church, dedicated to St. Anthony, serves as a testament to faith and community spirit. Its sturdy construction and thatched roof, immortalized by ShtjefÃŦn Gjeçovi, reflect the dedication of its young pastor who actively promoted peace and non-violence in Theth.
Whispers of Tradition: Mills, Clothing, and Architecture
The park’s cultural heritage whispers through the 12 small mills scattered throughout. These remnants of a bygone era served as the lifeblood of local communities, relied upon for grinding grain. While only two remain operational, they offer a glimpse into a way of life sustained by tradition. Traditional clothing further paints a vivid picture of the region’s identity. Women adorned themselves in the
flowing “xhubletÃŦ”, each area boasting its unique decorative flair. This garment accompanied them even to their final resting place. Men, as described by Edith Durham, sported the distinctive “xhamadan” and “kÃŦsulÃŦ”, reflecting their cultural heritage. The very architecture of Theth reflects its environment and unique needs. Houses, constructed with sturdy stone and sloped roofs to withstand harsh winters, typically comprise two or three floors, often built on slopes or nestled against mountains. This design showcases the practicality and distinct social norms of the communities, with separate access points for animals and families.
Hospitality and its Shadows: BESA and Beyond
Edith Durham’s writings paint a contrasting picture of Theth’s cultural landscape. While she was warmly received and offered generous hospitality in local homes, her encounters with “dark towers” hint at a history steeped in conflict. The practice of revenge, documented in the LekÃŦ Dukagjin Canon, highlights a darker aspect of the region’s past. However, Theth’s cultural tapestry extends beyond the shadows. “BESA,” the unwavering commitment to one’s word, exemplifies the Albanian spirit of honor and integrity. Durham further delves into the region’s rich customs, uncovering fascinating marriage practices, unique funeral rituals, and a deeply ingrained respect for women, a principle rooted in the legacy of the powerful Queen Teuta.
An Invitation to Immerse
The cultural and historical sites of Theth National Park beckon visitors to embark on a journey beyond breathtaking landscapes. Each stone, each tradition whispers a story, inviting exploration into a world where resilience, faith, and community spirit have stood the test of time.
